Silver Skillet. A review.

Do you remember ALICE? OLD school D-I-N-E-R.  Flo and all. Nostalgia? That's pushing it. Stale more is what I'd say. Breakfast and lunch is served and, heck, you don't even have to put on lipgloss or socks to eat here. Come as you are and get  your comfort food.   For my younger readers I liken this relic to a Godzilla movie. A dinosaur perched oddly in a metropolis. A sometimes delicious dinosaur from 1956 but a dinosaur nonetheless. This city still needs to cater to some long timers as the newer more chic food spots pop up around town to appease the foodies, newcomers and culinary trends. 

The menu is basic (IE boring but not everyone is an adventuresome eater) . As one person recently told me, "change makes me anxious and very uncomfortable."  Essentially wants to eat the same food all her life, do the same job, have the same partner and live in the same home. Nothing exciting but these people exist and their food dollars go to places like Silver Skillet.

The open roast beef sandwich admittedly smelled like heaven on earth this snowy day in Midtown (well, as snowy as Atlanta can be). It tasted like a plate of comfort. The basic burger was ummm BASIC but certainly edible. It won't make the top 50 best burgers in the city list but I know I've had worse (Jean Georges being one of them). Crinkle cut fries are generic but fill the empty hole that sometimes comes with a burger craving. I didn't smell smoke in there but wouldn't be at all surprised to see a patron or staff member lighting up.

This place is reasonably if not VERY busy at all hours they are open. Lack of area competition or just comfort food in a comfort booth? You tell me. Silver skillet has had a place in Atlanta for over 50 years and I suspect will still have one for the next decade (or two).

What's in my box? Kumquats.

I will admit I am a borderline kumquat virgin. Finding these in my box two weeks in a row had me curious. I love to try new things! 

Easter is nearly upon us. They are egg shapped and colorful so why not turn these into a star, or at least a supporting actor at the Easter table?

I did not grow up in a ham family and still don't favor it as an adult. Lamb I will never like. What to serve? duck breasts. Kumquat sauce is just the ticket for this protein. You know duck a la orange. How about duck with candied kumquats and honey herb sauce?

The first step is to candy (and sweetly preserve) these little citrus gems. Once these morsels are cooked down with some sugar you can keep them for weeks and start finding your own uses for them.

2 c. kumquats        

1 c. sugar

That's it. 

In a medium saucepan put enough water in with the kumquats (no sugar) to cover them by 2". Bring to a boil for 5 minutes. Drain. Repeat process. 

Now put 2c of water in the empty pan and boil with 1 c. sugar. Let boil for 7-10 minutes then add the kumquats and simmer on med low heat for 20 minutes. Cool then let set out overnight in the syrup. Next morning move the sweet kumquat mixuture into a covered container in the fridge til you're ready to use.

Duck shots coming next week (as well as the sauce recipe I come up with).

Del Frisco's Grille. A review.

I was very sad to see Craft go.  Much of the great vibe of Craft still lives on in Del Frisco's Grille. You know, where the Mandarin is (btw if you have opportunity the homes in the mandarin are divine).

First sight, the wine cellar is spectacular.  Caymus, Stag's Leap, Silver hill... yeah those. It's that kind of wine selection. Bless you wine wall of greatness but not tonight. I am swillin bourbon. It's a hoppin bar scene on a Monday night and I spy a lot of expense account dinners going on.  I find it a little bi polar with the high end atmosphere but there are tv's. (I find that odd in Hal's on old Ivy too). If Caymus is in your cellar there should be no TV. Period.

I will give a bit of a spoiler alert now. I wish the wine and the atmosphere had food that was equally good. The steakhouses of Del Frisco's are about as good as they come. The grille concept isn't quite up to that level of greatness. Not yet anyway.  The menu has a nice mix of something for everyone, including creativity. 

French onion dip didn't have much flavor but the big cup of plank house made potato chips hit the spot. Pimento cheese fritters I found puzzling after eating two.  They weren't particularly hot. The coating tasted stale or maybe too thick/doughy. No warm fuzzy feeling like you would expect a cheese fritter to evoke.  

Wild mushroom flat bread has a nice flavor that I can't deny but the bread texture is a bit off. It's thick and a little chewey, borderline gummy. A bit thinner and crisper it would be  a real winning dish.  

Steakhouse salad didn't quite live up to the description. The steak itself was cooked correctly and tasty but the salad was underwhelming. The deviled eggs with it were awkward and tasted more like picnic deviled eggs than high end. The greens were fresh and vibrant. Overall it lacked oomph.

Desserts redeemed the meal to some extent. I had my eye on coconut cream pie all night. My holy grail of desserts.  Out came an enormous individual (make that enough for three) of vanilla wafer crust housing some delicious coconuty cream with a true mountain of freshly whipped cream and a tumble of shaved white chocolate. I loved it. 

The nutella bread pudding is baked individually so you get the glorious crunchy top with creamier base and an really outstanding scoop of high road creamery coffee ice cream. Pair up with with a damn fine cup of cappuccino and all is right in the world for those few sweet moments.

The staff, including hostesses were a joy, another saving grace.

I hope they tighten up in the kitchen and get the food on par with the look of the space. Right now it still needs some work.

Scalini's. A review.

There are about a third of dining establishments I've been to in my life that I have returned to for ONE SINGLE ITEM which I refer to as The Sure Thing. Scalini's has one of those gems: garlic rolls.

My readers know I generally avoid all things Italian but I have been to Scalini's multiple times for these rolls and found myself actually enjoying the other food on the menu.

It's cozy in here. Smells get your appetite ramped up. Certainly you get many of the usual suspects you expect on an Italian menu.  Chicken, veal, Eggplant and yes pasta.  Artichoke hearts are generically good.  Calamari crisp and not too oily or tough. 

If you like pasta the options are gorgeous but I don't. I do however enjoy many  meaty Italian dishes like chicken and veal scallopini. The Francese is a generous portion and tender, flavorful and all around satisfying. The salad that comes with the meal is crisp and light. Cuts through the heaviness that many Italian entrees tend to be.  That didn't stop me from cleaning my plate though (ok I did share a few bites but most of it I consumed myself).

Marsala, again , generous portion. More good satisyfing flavor and tender chicken. Can I have more of those crack garlic rolls I can't seem to stop eating? Thank you attentive server.  Don't worry about refilling the water glass, refill that roll basket.  If you're sharing one of the generous entrees you can get an a la carte add on of the salad and rolls (are you seeing a pattern here?). You will certainly want your own portion of both.

Apparently there is some magic juju in their eggplant parmigiana as it has caused women to go into labor. If you have that stubborn pregnancy you can't seem to get birthing on its own, eat a plate of this and you will be on your way to the delivery room in no time at all!

I was thrilled to see risotto crema for dessert. That is rice pudding to you and  me. Delicious creamy and just what I had no room for but ate it anyway. Yum.

Yes I am going back for more rolls.

What's in my box? MINT!

Mint sometimes can be an awkward and even forgotten about ingredient. In other cases it can really make a dish. You may have it growing as a wild weed in your yard. You may have sipped it in your southern glass (iced tea or mint julep). You may have had it in jelly for with your lamb.  All valid mint applications.

My mint use of choice without question is the watermelon feta salad. The salad simply is not at its very best without this key ingredient. The proportion of each component is critical as well. When it all comes together in perfect balance it is the most refreshing plate of cold food you could ever concot.

My ideal:

2.5 parts seedless cubed watermelon 

to

1 part small cubed feta cheese

finish with balsamic reduction, olive oil, a kiss of sea salt and somewhat sparingly chiffonade of mint.

Serve cold or cool.

Meehan's Vinning's. A review.

This location has a much smaller interior but the outdoor seating is fantastic. If you haven't in in the past 6 months give it a try again. Chef Val has come over from the Sandy Springs location and the quality food he puts out came with him. Lots of cheery staff and attentive service!

Chef Val Domingo does a special menu periodically to keep the creative juices flowing. I happened to be in when the newest addition was launched. I heard about this infamous truffle burger last week and have been beyond curious to try it.

I don't know of my surprise to see lobster bisque on a pub menu is unjust but I ordered it anyway. It's by far my favorite soup.  Even more surprising is this is certainly one of the better versions I've had. I had to do a double take to make sure I was in fact in an Irish pub. Rich with house made lobster stock, sherry, old bay and cream. Shellfish meat pieces stud the soup which quite frankly doesn't even need seafood pieces in it to make it incredible. Don't miss a bowl of this.

Pork belly poutine is Chef Val's twist on this Canadian comfort staple. Crisped up lardon of pork belly garnishes this plate of comfort fries, red wine gravy and cheese curds. I won't like, this is a bowl of sin but you won't stop eating it once you start. top it with an egg and you can call it breakfast!  Get a pint of your favorite brew and chow down (maybe not at breakfast but I am not judging).

 Irish curry chicken over saratoga chips. Curry, Irish, chips? yes yes yes.  This curry isn't the heavy coconut cream based curry you're used to. It's somewhat brothy, red and yellow curry powder mix and that garam masala really shines.  Lots of tender white meat chicken studs this spiced dish. The house chips are a nice unexpected touch. The vegetables (carrot, chickpeas, green peas and celery) are vibrant with texture.  It's not the mushy Indian takeout you may know and love. It's lighter and brighter.     

 Now for this burger!  Out came this monstrous heavenly dressed sandwich.  Piled high with house made boursin, crispy fried onions and spring greens this very juicy truffle laced grain fed patty all came together in one satisfying brioche-y good bite.  

 

Not to be outdone was a fantastic warm blue cheese and walnut studded slaw. I couldn't stop eating it! How it is warm yet still crunchy baffles me a bit but it works.    

What's in my box: cabbage, cauliflower and potatoes

The psychotic weather that is wintertime in Georgia has us feeling freezing temps the past few nights. Soup seems to fit the bill and since so many vegetables lend themselves to it the Renaissance Organics delivery always has a few items that find their way nicely into my soup pot.

I nicked this from the Washington Post. It reminds me of a cabbage and potato comfort dish of my childhood but pureed with delicious cauliflower and mustard. Similar but different. 

http://projects.washingtonpost.com/recipes/2010/02/10/cabbage-cauliflower-and-potato-chowder/

Meet Meehan's Chef Brian O'Rourke. A review.

Oh how I have enjoyed every one of these special pairing dinners the Meehan's locations have. They are off the beaten path (WAY OFF) the regular everyday menu fare. A pairing dinner allows the chefs creativity to really shine. Tonight was no exception.

I hadn't met or eaten any of Chef O'Rourke's food before. Those of you that are fans of former sandy springs location chef Val Domingo (he's at the Vinings location now) hired Brian and he's worked under Val. You can trust he is putting out good food.

Tonight's menu is a craft beer pairing. 

Roasted Tomato and Pork Consomme: This is an old school classic you won't see on a menu often, if ever. This one was impressively rich in roasted pork bone flavor and mellowed with tomato. Arguably the hallmark of a good , if not great chef is indeed the soup making skills.  Juding from this bowl, O'Rouke has his soup game TIGHT. A two bite house made pork quenelle (almost sausage tasting but more delicate) garnished the dish. I loved savory every drop.

Brussel Sprout salad: This  is one of the more ballsy dishes I've seen in a long while. Generally a pairing dinner is only suited to more adventurous eaters. You won't see this on mainstream menus. Not because they aren't delicious but because  brussel sprouts are one of the most unpopular vegetables in town. This is the first time I've had them served raw.  Dressed with grapefruit sections, bacon, radish and balsamic reduction all makes for one damn happy plate. This may be my new favorite winter salad.  The whole table cheered with delight. Magnificent!

Trout with pimento cheese grits and garlic succotash: The shining star of this plate is the house made pimento cheese put into the garlic cooked grits.  Distinct yet still the comfort level you expect from grits. Delicate fish and a succotash that was just a little short of perfect but still nice.  More grits please!

  Chocolate braised short rib with bourbon braised sweet potato collard hash and mole jus. A real stick to your bones kind of dish. The attention to flavor in each component was stellar. Impossibly tender braise on the rib with complex satisfying richness. The hash had a wonderful maply rich flavor and collards were the best I've tasted. Tender as you like with flavor for days. If only I had room to ask for seconds I would have. I still had dessert coming after all. 

Peanut butter ice cream with cherry almond compote and vanilla almond tuille: Welcome to the very grown up way to eat your PB&J in public with style. The ice cream had a hypnotic roasty peanut flavor that wasn't battling excess sugar. Cherry compote was powerfully puckery delicious and blended seamlessly with the ice cream. The wispy thin tuille added a nice textural contrast. My mouth wanted two more despite my tummy being maxed out.

Some of the other dining guests in ear shot had been mentioning how much they love a few of the regular menu items. Clearly I need to come back and sample them and I shall.

What's in my box? Arugula!

About 2 years ago I was in one of Michael Symon's restaurants in Ohio. This is the first time I was introduced to pairing a perfectly cooked steak with something that isn't of the potato or creamed spinach variety.  I was skeptical when the plate was in front of me  but by the third bite I was sold.  This guy is a well known chef for a reason. He can successfully think outside the box and deliver the goods.

There is big peppery arugula bunches in my box this week. I instantly wanted steak with it. A lemony arugula salad is both a garnish, a side and a flavor enhancer. 

 Arugula salad with steak:

Fresh lemon juice

olive oil

salt and pepper

boiled lemon peel (boil in sugar syrup water, cooled and cut into tiny ribbons with a sharp knife)

Minced shallot (optional)

fresh, washed and dried arugula leaves (salad spinners are great for this task)

Get your steak cooking (grill, pan sear, etc). wash the arugular or use a salad spinner to prep for finishing the steak.

In a large bowl put in equal parts olive oil and fresh lemon juice. Use about 2 tbsp of each if you have a full bunch, trimmed.  To that add 2 tsp minced shallot, kosher or pink salt and black pepper to taste. Then add the cooked lemon peel and mix together to combine. Sprinkle in the prepped arugula and toss with your hands to coat evenly. Serve a small amount on top of the rested steak or a larger portion on the side.

candying lemons

Tin Drum Cafe. A buckhead location review.

I have been to the Dunwoody location and rather enjoyed it as far as fast chains go.  This location is in the strip mall with Fresh Market and Ace Hardware. 

It is clean, the same decor as other locations (hey chain do aim for consistency) and same menu. 

The menu gives me a bit of ocular whiplash. While I do understand the desire to feel hip, cool and push the bar of the house graphic design department, menus should not be WORK to decipher. Sometimes just chosing something appealing out of a group of dishes is tough enough when they are lined up perfectly. I warn you, you should know going in if rice or noodles is your game. That will keep whiplash to a minimum. 

This time I opted for beloved Masaman curry. I am of the opinion that if your chef adds black pepper to masaman curry he should be fired instantly. Yes I do not lie. This really took away from the general comfort creaminess you look for in this dish. I was actually jarring to my tastebuds when the finish of the flavor is black pepper when you expect it to be ginger or spice.

The crab roll was a bit of a disaster . The menu suggests an addictive nature here but that would only be if you are addicted to grease and unbalanced proportion of crunch to cream. Lackluster flavor. Surely this isn't the consistency the corporate office had in mind.

I know america loves a chain and for that I won't get all food superior here but there are damn good chains out there but this isn't one of them. Staff is delightful at both locations I've been to. I will say that.

West Egg Cafe. A review.

In the midtown hipster area known as the westside you will find this chic industrial vibe space (typical decor in the area). It's quite large inside. Outdoor seating (of course with unpredictable Atlanta weather it is quick to be covered and heated as is necessary) is available too. 

What I really love is I can get brunch here during the week. The last thing I want to do on a Sunday is LEAVE my home. heck even leaving my bed isn't all that appealing on a sunday. What's a girl to do when she loves brunch? Why, now go to west egg on a tuesday at 11 and get my brunch-on!

You will find the usual suspects on the breakfast menu but they are really done RIGHT. over the top creamy grits with a finish of garlic. Heaven high biscuits and eggs for days. Yes there is sausage but it's turkey and it also fills the cream gravy. I didn't hate it. 

The belgian waffle rocked my world. I am certainly a waffle connisseur. I am not an egg girl. Waffles? yes please. This is a classic batter but what makes it over the top is spiced butter. I tasted what I thought wa nutmeg. It is classic comfort with a side of elegance.  I wish I got 3!  Black bean cakes are a nice option and there was some quinoa hash for the special so it is gluten free friendly if that is a concern.

Breakfast and brunch not your thing at all? Fear not. There is real lunch food there! Not to be missed is the short rib cheesesteak hoagie. Why haven't I had a short rib hoagie before?!  Generous tender short rib with mushrooms, red cooked onion, kiss of horseradish and provolone. It's big enough to share (for ladies or one hungry fella).

Coffee is very decent. Good service - plenty of staff.  I will be returning for my weekday brunch cravings.

Community Q BBQ. A Review.

Another strip mall bbq gem in the metro area (if you consider Decatur metro?)   You will find it next to Bhojanic Indian. 

Country store decor as is appropriate. It has more seating than Heirloom Market but less than Fox Bros. I call it a happy medium.

I ordered my standard fare of pork ribs and brisket. Mac n cheese and brunswick stew sides (not usual but it sounded good at the time). My friend got similar plate but baked beans in addition to.

I will say the ribs and brisket are delicious. Tender, light smoke taste and not overly sauced. Two sauces are on the table, mustard based and an overly sweet uncomplex Kansas city style. Ribs are meaty and easy to eat (as opposed to a sloppy mess and I don't say sloppy mess like it's a bad thing).  Brisket is lean but not too lean and tender as you would expect from a proper cook.  

The side are a gamble. The mac n cheese is rigatoni a noodle with a cheddary sauce, high fat creamy comfort and a safe bet for satisfaction.  The baked beans LOOKED like they would taste divine but they did greatly disappoint. No complexity. Neither of us wanted more than one bite. The stew suffered the same offense. I gave it two bites hoping the second would be better than the first. No luck. 

Free parking! It's a lot so nothing fancy (you weren't wearing your ball gown to your Q dinner were you?) but when it's free who cares?

Go for the mains, sides are at your own risk.  7 out of 10. 6 for food and a plus 1 for friendly staff.

Today's vegan: caesar with homemade fococcia croutons and vegan parmesan

If a homemade focaccia turned into homemade fococcia croutons don't make you want to eat salad I don't know what will!

Today's cocktail hour. Blood orange jalapeno margaritas.

It's oddly warm here today. Tornado warm. Couple that with the blood oranges and jalapeno peppers in this weeks Renaissance Organics delivery and you have the makings of a margarita--with a kick. I mention every week how a box of a variety is exciting and keeps the diet interesting.

Blood orange jalapeno margarita:

1/2  c. fresh blood orange juice

1/4 c jalapeno infused simple syrup (equal parts  1/2c sugar and water boiled with 2 cut jalapenos)

2 Tbsp lime juice

1.5 oz white tequila

1 oz triple sec

shake all together with ice and serve topped with slivers of fresh jalapeno peppers.

One Vegan week day 1.

I am thrilled this has commenced once again. Last week when I mentioned to a client one of the cookbooks I am writing is vegetarian she said she and her family have gone vegan for the past year.  She finds the same exhilarating creativity in food that I do during these stints. Even when they call ahead to restaurants for vegan meals often the chefs are excited to get creative with the fresh food they have to work with to accomodate their lifestyle. 

 Today's delicious:  Brown rice coconut congee with oyster mushrooms and garlic chives

Congee:

3/4 c.  brown basmati rice

4 c. water

1/2 c. canned coconut milk

1 tsp kosher salt

2 garlic cloves, smashed

1 inch knob ginger

Bring all ingredients together in a  medium saucepan and bring to boil over med-high heat.  Immediately lower it to the lowest temp and let it go for 90 minutes. Uncover and raise heat to medium to cook off some of the excess liquid for 20-30 minutes while you prepare the mushrooms. Taste to see if it needs more salt. this is the time to add it. It should have a very subtle creamy nutty taste almost like butter.

Caramelised mushroom and onion topping
1/3 c. thinly sliced and quartered red onion

1 tbsp oilve oil

2 cups assorted mushrooms (I used half crimini and half young and sliced king oysters), wiped clean with a soft towel if needed. DO NOT WASH IN WATER.

2 Tbsp snipped garlic chives

1 Tbsp Bragg's liquid aminos (this ups the umami ante)

In a large fairly shallow heavy skillet heat the oil over medium heat and add onions. Let them soften and brown while you prepare the mushrooms.  Add the mushrooms to the pan and let sweat til some of the moisture releases (you may opt to cover it for a few minutes of the pan seems dry).  Stir once and add liquid aminos and chives. Allow mushrooms to get some color by not stirring them too often, every 2 minutes or so.  The whole process may take the entire 20 minutes the congee is thickening. 

to serve:

put about 1 cup of hot congee in a bowl, top with a few raw spinach leaves then warm mushrooms. Garnish with more garlic chives if desired. Enjoy while hot.