Kyma is part of the reliable Buckhead Restaurant group family of moderate to fine dining eateries. It’s generally a safe assumption that any of their establishments will deliver a good, if not great meal. Located on Piedmont just spitting distance from Buckhead Diner, Kyma is hardcore Mediterranean. Elegant white marble and Adriatic blue accents somewhat transports you out of the landlocked city of Atlanta for the duration of your meal.
For the size of the space it’s not oppressively noisy. Noise level generally plays a part in my enjoyment of a meal. Fortunately the lack of it made me fully able to enjoy all the tastes that came to my table.
Upon glance, and even scrutiny of the overall menu it is decidedly a seafood restaurant. Sure there is an offering of one each chicken, beef and lamb for the landlubber at the table but make no bones about it, this is indeed a seafood restaurant. It’s also very much vegetarian friendly and I don’t mean the kind of vegetarian that coats 90% of their food in cheese and cream.
The wine list is also very decidedly Greek. I know, not music to a wine lovers ears but why not do when in Rome? I asked the waiter for a specific style of wine and he directed me right to one that fit the bill. While it was not unpleasant by any means it’s still a Greek wine. I would best describe the Green wines I’ve had as flat and forgettable.
Chilled oysters. New Brunswick variety , petite, incredibly tender and even more incredibly fresh. Sweet, briny and all around a win.
Potato garlic olive oil spread with pita. Silky riced potato with no dairy. These potatoes are not resting on the laurels of cream and butter. Heavy lemon note with a back note of garlic. Carb lovers dream when spread on warmed pita wedges. This showed a lot of restraint as it could have gone too salty or too flat. Rejoice vegans. This one will satisfy you.
Watermelon salad. This composed salad has been around for a few years and there is a reason it’s not going anywhere. This version is equal proporition cubed melon and feta. Very light fresh herbs and shaved onion garnish it. Deliciously refreshing with the addition of elegantly sweet watermelon sorbet quenelle.
Zucchini fritters with saffron aioli. Round balls of squash and cheese with delicate seasoning fried in a tempura light crust and all around delicious with no trace of grease. The vibrant aioli is a perfect compliment. Again, not overly seasoned just delicately balanced. Another successful dish. I am starting to see a tapas pattern and I like it.
Entrees are mainly a choice of whole fresh fish or shell fish grilled and served with the house prepared garnish of lemon , capers and olive oil. I opted for lobster in this style of prep. The crustacean came to me cooked to perfection. Tender claws removed from their shell and the body spilt and cooked. Capers are a bit aggressive for the delicate meat but they are easy enough to eat around. Clarified drawn butter on the side proved to be a better marriage of flavor in my mouth. I loved every bite. Let's be real, if you screw up lobster in a seafood restaraunt you really should close your doors and try your hand at burgers.
Red snapper Briam, the chefs favorite has a beautiful pan sear and served atop summer squash, eggplant and tomatoes. Another cooked to perfection protein. The portions are pleasantly sized and you won’t leave hungry.
Banana katafi is not to be missed. A beautiful dessert of shredded phyllo fried banana (I realize hot banana is hit or miss for some people), petite flourless chocolate cake of medium richness and all around delicious along with impossibly creamy tangy greek yogurt ice cream.
Service is perfection but I often wonder if that is because they realize I am writing a review or the staff just cares that you enjoy yourself enough to come back.
8.5 out of 10 for Kyma. Another gem in the Buckhead Life crown.