I knew I’d be in for a treat at another one of the Castellucci group concepts. Sugo was up to bat now.
Two locations, John’s creek and Roswell. Will my heart be broken if I pray they open another Iberian Pig location in the north end too?
The Roswell location is a nice sized space. Tables aren’t cramped and the décor is warm and dark. Full bar seating if you have to wait and want to pass the time with a cocktail.
First up were some tapas plates. Eggplant fries, bacon wrapped dates and the special flatbread of the evening.
Eggplant fries were crisp but not greasy. It was paired perfectly with a spicy creamy red pepper aioli. It really made the more bland nature of an eggplant sing. A must have.
Bacon wrapped date had a walnut tucked inside versus the more standard goat cheese. I generally always get a bacon date when it’s on the menu. I found these to be some of the better versions I’ve had. Very crisp and more smokey than I usually find. Walnut works great inside. I could eat 20.
Flatbread, this special version had pulled pork, arugula, diced tomato and shaved cheese. I couldn’t tell what it was exactly but reminded me of a ricotta salata. Dressed very lightly with balsamic. I have never had a flatbread like this. It was wispy light like a potato chip. Dressing is kept light so you can pick up the pieces without them going soggy. I didn’t dislike it but don’t know that I would order it again. I don’t discourage you from trying it. It’s a nice break from more doughy flatbreads.
The very charming Nancy Castelluci was making the rounds to charm the guests. I was delighted to finally meet her. She has a Kennedy-esque accent and very definite Jackie O elegance. I see where her son gets it from. This family knows how to execute hospitality correctly. She informed me Emilee Greer, the pastry chef with a impressive pedigree at Double Zero, also does the desserts for Sugo. That is a busy young lady! The bread she makes for Sugo is really something special. Papery thin crisp crust and delicate interior sponge. Rusty and entirely satisfying. If I knew more about the baking science I could decide what technique she used but alas she is the expert. I am not. I only know all the diners at my table loved it.
Black Truffle Pasta
Homemade fresh pasta tossed with braised pork cheek, black truffles, wild mushrooms, roasted infused tomatoes, and shaved Pecorino Grand Cru. Served alongside spinach and confit grape tomato . It didn’t have much truffle flavor but that said it was incredibly delicious. The pasta was feather light and the sauce delicately seasoned. Very satisfying dish.
12 oz. prime beef tenderloin grilled and encrusted with bacon, dates, walnuts, and manchego cheese. Served atop braised pork, caramelized fennel and shallots and finished with a moscatel wine reduction. Accompanied by beer battered piquillo peppers stuffed with marscapone cheese . I’ve had this at Iberian pig when it was featured as a special and I absolutely adore it. Very generous filet (you probably need to share this) with a hypnotic combination of adornments. If you’re a beef lover this is your dish.
Caprese salad, beautiful presentation but I didn’t taste (one thing I don’t eat is tomatoes)
Now for Emilee’s desserts!
Cannoli- reminds me why I don’t like cannoli. Don’t order. Bad texture and no flavor.
Baklava cheesecake. Creamy smooth texture with a baklava top. Delicately kissed with cinnamon. I’d love to have it again.
Table favorite is the Dream Bombe. Softball sized peanut butter gelato with caramel center and chocolate shell. Go if only for this frozen treat! More flavor that you usually get in something frozen.
Ms. Castellucci came around and gave us glasses of Moscato di Asti to end our evening. Two thumbs up Sugo. I’ll see you soon Ms. Nancy.